Monday, January 31, 2011
Madrid Photo Album
Thought I'd try a new way to post pictures by creating an album so you can see all of them rather than just putting a few in each entry. When you click on the picture, it takes you to Picasa Web where I've created the album. When it opens, you'll see all the pictures and you can click on "slideshow" on the upper left.
Here's the first one for Madrid so let me know what you think........
Enjoy!
Saturday, January 29, 2011
A really educational day
After breakfast, Alfred accompanied us on the train to where the Berlin Wall used to stand and the infamous Check Point Charlie station, where American and East German soldiers used to face off. This truly was a fascinating history lesson and having a personal guide with us like Alfred, who lived through the tearing down of the wall, was priceless. For several blocks around the area, you can read informational panels about the origins of the wall and the events leading up to it’s fall. Alfred remembered clearly that night in 1989 when the formal decision was made to allow East Berliners to come across the wall into West Berlin, many of whom had been separated from families and friends for years, and the thousands of people lined up on the east side waiting to cross. Also in that area he showed us the building that Hitler used for his headquarters and where he killed himself at the end of the war. After visiting that part of the city, we wished we had had more time to learn about all the history that’s there, but maybe another trip.
After that, we parted ways at the train station and Jim and I continued on to visit a concentration camp on the northern fringes of Berlin. It is one of the oldest concentration camps and they have done an excellent job documenting what happened there. I must say, it’s one thing to read about the atrocities committed by the Nazis during the war, but something else entirely to actually walk the grounds where such evil took place. From what I gathered, this camp was originally meant as a “work camp” where political dissidents and others whom the Nazis deemed as unfit were sent to serve as free labor for the war effort, and then as they weakened from overwork and torture, were sent on to some of the more infamous camps, such as Auschwitz and Berkenau. By the end of the war, though, people were being killed in this camp as well, many being shot by firing squads. Apparently, the Nazis brought in portable ovens to burn all the dead bodies and one particularly gruesome story mentioned them using the leftover ashes to repave some of the grounds and roads around the camp. Also on the grounds were medical facilities where some of the horrendous “experiments” where carried out on prisoners. I remembered being sickened by one account where they wanted to understand the effects of gangrene and how to treat it so they took pieces of straw contaminated with bacteria then cutting incisions into the prisoners upper arms and sewing the straws up under their skin. Just when you thought man’s inhumanity towards other men couldn’t get any worse, right?
After that sobering afternoon, we headed back to Sigrid and Alfred’s to enjoy some wine and look at pictures from their many travels. We were treated to a visit by their daughter Kathy and her 4 month old son as well. Kathy is a really sweet girl and is finishing law school soon. Apparently, the plan is for her to help Alfred out in his office, since he’s an attorney also, so he and Sigrid can take some more time off to travel. Since Sigrid is a self employed doctor, she has a little more flexibility with her schedule, so they’re really looking forward to their future travel plans. They showed us pictures of Cuba, Mongolia, India and Japan, which all looked like great places to visit! It was a wonderful finish to our visit to Berlin, which we will certainly remember for a long time!
I’m writing this on the train to Prague and am starting to get pretty sleepy. We stayed up until about midnight looking at pictures and had to get up at 4:15 to catch our early morning train so were just a little sleepy as you can imagine……..the sun has risen and the landscape outside looks REALLY cold, with frost and ice everywhere. Might be time to head further south after Prague if this keeps up!!
Did we just eat bugs???!!!
We had made arrangements to take Sigrid and Alfred to dinner tonight in appreciation for hosting us. We did not get a chance to meet Alfred yesterday since he came home after us and went straight to bed. We let them decide where to go for dinner and they decided on a new restaurant in a nearby town called Sydney, which was designed around an Australian theme. Picture Outback Steakhouse and you’ll get the idea. The menu had all sorts of meats that you wouldn’t find in the States - or in the rest of Germany I would guess for that matter. Kangaroo filets were actually on the menu so I decided to be live on the edge and dine on the national mascot of Australia. That, though, was only the beginning our culinary adventure…..you see, Sigrid had mentioned when we were chatting yesterday about a salad they make which is sprinkled with - take a deep breath everyone - deep fried crickets. If I’m lyin, I’m dyin. Remember now, these are adventurous folks who have traveled all over the world and throughout much of Asia, so they’ve tried quite a number of highly unusual foods, at least by Western standards. So what does she order for the table? You guessed, it cricket surprise. Of course, she’s ordering in German, so I had no idea what was coming until the server put it on the table. Imagine just your ordinary, run of the mill green salad, with tomato, cucumber, lettuce, and oh, what’s that? A small pile of fried crickets in one corner of the bowl, about an inch long. Yeah. And before I could magically wish the bowl to dissolve into thin air, our very friendly hosts made sure to offer each of us one, insisting we just had to try them. Talk about being put on the spot!! As I tried to stammer through some sort of protest that wouldn’t offend them, I finally gave up and just put my hand out, as did Jim and before I could take any time to think about it or look too long at little Jiminy Cricket, I popped him in my mouth and crunched away. I don’t think we could accurately describe the taste except to say it wasn’t really bad, but just tasted like some sort of fried something. Of course, I didn’t let the little sit on my tongue for too long before swallowing right away and taking a big, long gulp of beer.
Two thoughts occurred to me during the rest of the evening. The first was I had noticed at one point a fly was buzzing around the table and I wondered - if it were to land on the cricket and take a bit, would that be like canibalism? The second was I remembered when I was a kid we would occasionally get a cricket in the house and my mother would never kill it, but gently cup it in her hands and release it outside and here I was eating one. What would Mom think?
So there you have it. We’re in Germany, at an Australian-themed restaurant and I’m eating kangaroo and crickets. I guess everyday is truly and adventure…….
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Berlin
Sigrid & Alfred LOVE to travel as well and from the looks of all the amazing artwork in their home, they have clearly been all over the world. She explained that she is from Germany originally but her parents moved to Cleveland, Ohio when she was a small girl and so she grew up there. As an adult, she wanted to learn more about her German heritage so she came back to Germany and never left. She told us that she is currently teaching a German man English and was hoping we’d be willing to sit down with her and her student over a glass of wine and help him practice his English - well of course we said yes! So we’ll see when she organizes that…..
She educated us about the train and metro system and told us the train station was a short 10 minute walk from their house, which then connects up with a metro station with trains running right into the center of Berlin. Get this - she actually walked us to the train station to make sure we knew where to go and explained which train to get on! If that wasn’t sweet enough, while we were buying our tickets at the station, we heard her greeting a man and woman who she introduced to us as friends of her’s who live in the town. Their names are Maria and Wolfe and apparently they were taking the train into town to visit an art exhibit and Sigrid asked if they wouldn’t mind helping us make sure we got off at the right stop. Human kindness really does overflow at times…….
Wishing us a fun day, she left us to board the train with Maria and Wolfe, whom I would guess were in their early 60‘s. Now I have to tell you, they were the sweetest couple you could ever meet. She basically knew no English except for a word or two and he could speak some basic English but not a whole lot. That didn’t stop them, though, from giving us an extra map they had of the metro system and explaining again which stop to get off. It was really adorable how she would smile at us and think of something we might enjoy seeing in the city, which she would explain to Wolfe, who would then translate what she said as best he could into English. Suffice it to say, our conversations were somewhat stunted but you could really tell they wanted to chat as much as they could.
Well, we got off at the right stop and then transferred to a subway line that took us right where we needed to go. Now, I hadn’t thought to change into my long underwear before we left their house so I wasn’t quite as layered as I would have liked to have been and let me tell you - I could have used it!! It was REALLY cold and wet today and actually snowed for awhile as we walked around the city. However, we did make it to the famous Brandenburg Gate which truly is an amazing monument to behold. Of course, as I went to take a picture, the camera battery died reminded me that I forgot to charge it up last night!! Oh well - Jim was able to snap some good pictures on his phone and we’ll be back in the area with the charged up camera in the next couple of days I’m sure……..from our brief foray today Berlin seemed like a very lovely city. The streets were incredibly clean and at least the parts of the city where we were had wide open sidewalks which made it really easy to get around. At the worst of the snow, we luckily found a Starbucks (go figure) right across from the Brandenburg Gate to tuck into and have a warm coffee while we looked out on the square. All in all, a perfect afternoon really.
Easy Jet
The next interesting thing about EasyJet is that when get to the departure area, they don’t list ahead of time what gate your flight is leaving from. Your boarding pass tells you at what time you can start boarding, but they don’t announce which gate you’re leaving from until the plane has landed. I guess that saves them money and time by not having to assign gates ahead of time? Anyway, once you get on board, there is NOTHING for free, not even peanuts or water. You are very nicely told there is a charge for everything. If that’s not enough, they come down the aisle with a duty free cart right after that announcing all the other goods you can buy while on the plane - it’s like an ongoing sales pitch! Too much…….but I’m not complaining, since it’s still probably the most economical way to fly around Europe. I think the final cost for both of us to fly from Barcelona to Amsterdam and then to Berlin, including the checked bags was about $250.
On a side note, security measures are also a little different when you fly through European airports. Going through the Amsterdam airport, we did not have to take off our shoes (I also recall this was the case in Australian airports as well - must be an American thing because of the shoe bomber guy) but we did go through the full body scan which was interesting. Anyway…….
We’re planning on taking the train between Berlin and Prague so we’ll keep you posted on how that goes.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Amsterdam
The other interesting thing about Amsterdam is the coffee houses all over town which offer marijuana for sale, which is also legal here. Again, we weren’t interesting in partaking, but as you walked by the open doors, you sure could smell what was going on in there!
We also enjoyed taking a canal boat tour through town today. It was about an hour long and took us out to Amsterdam Harbor as well as up and down many of the canals through the city. The audio guide pointed out interesting facts about the canals as well as houses and buildings along the way. We head to wait our turn, though, to hear what was being said as the audio is in Dutch, German, French and Italian as well as in English! Some interesting facts we heard were:
- Amsterdam has 1200 bridges in the city and 2500 houseboats. The city has placed a limit on the number of houseboats so that's all there will be in the future.
- The canals are 2-3 meters deep.
- Because all the houses are so narrow and because in the past most of the supplies people needed arrived by boat on the canal, all houses are equiped with a hoisting beam at the top of the building so they could hoist their furniture, etc. to the roof and then into their homes.
The other interesting thing about Amsterdam, as you all know, is there are a TON of bikes and people bike everywhere! The typical street is divided up into sections, with a wide sidewalk for pedestrians, then a lane for bikes, then a lane for cars, tram lines in the middle. Very logical setup!
Well, we fly out tomorrow morning to Berlin where we'll be staying with a woman named Sigrid and her family who we connected with on couchsurfing.com. She sounds really nice so we'll let you now how it goes.......
Use #47 for plastic water bottles
Laundry Day
Take the #50 train by the hotel headed towards Isolatorweg.
Get off at the Lelylaan station.
Walk down to the tram stop below the train station and take tram #17 headed towards Dyhgraafplein.
Get off at the Johan Huizingalaan stop.
Walk down to #100 Johan Huizingalaan and we would find the laundromat called “Wassery”.
Sounds easy enough, right?
Actually, it was just that easy. We dressed in the cleanest things we had, which by this point were our exercise pants (too cold to jog and besides, we are doing a LOT of walking these days!) and t shirts. Since it is rather chilly out, we bundled up in our jackets, scarves and gloves…..don’t you know we were a sight! We packed all our other clothes into our bags and off we went, rolling our dirty laundry behind us.
What the nice guy at the front desk didn’t tell us was that this place was sort of a place where people go to drop off their laundry, not necessarily to do it themselves. When we walked in, a fellow was working there with his younger employee in a small space with seven washing machines and three super giant dryers. His English wasn’t very good but he explained that it cost 10 euros for them to do our laundry for us and 8 euros if we did it ourselves. We explained that we would do it ourselves, which I don’t think made him too happy, but he went ahead and gave us two washers to use once the clothes that were in them were finished and we went to work. Fortunately, they provided the laundry soap so at least we didn’t have to worry about that!
So here we are sitting in two of only three chairs they have in the place, waiting for the clothes to dry (fortunately, all the laundry fit into one of the mondo dryers). Since we hadn’t had any breakfast yet, Jim was kind enough to walk to the bakery next door and get us a couple of ham and cheese croissants. Sadly, we had to make do with a Coke Light (Diet Coke in Euro speak) from the vending machine since the bakery didn’t have any coffee…..sigh. I guess we’ll just have to get our coffee fix later.
Oh, the glamorous life of travel, right????
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Our Cool Budget Hotel in Amsterdam
Friday, January 21, 2011
Me Gusto Mucho Barcelona!!
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Madrid to Barcelona
Tapas and Churros con Chocolate
Monday, January 17, 2011
Toledo, Spain
Since it was still early in the morning, there was quite a bit of morning fog that stayed with us much of the way. As we pulled into Toledo, we missed out on the gorgeous view of the midievil city that’s clustered around a hilltop due to the heavy fog. We didn’t worry too much about it since the train station itself was an amazing sight to behold. Built around 1912, it has many Moorish features borrowed from the early Arabic settlers of the area.
All I can say is, Toledo was everything we expected and more. It is absolutely one of the most spectacular examples of a European city that seems to have remained unchanged after hundreds of years. The city is build on a hill and is surrounded on three sides by the Rio Tojo river with bridges linking it to the outer, newer “suburbs”. We rode the tourist train around the city that despite seeming somewhat cheesy, turned out to be very informative and provided some great vantage points for pictures. We spent the rest of the day wandering the narrow, winding streets that provided all kinds of great “oooh, ahhh” photo opportunities. This place, in my humble opinion, is truly a must see for anyone coming to this part of Europe.
We had a really fun surprise when we arrived back in Madrid and took a walk through the train station. There was an area of the station that we hadn’t seen when we left in the morning and it was amazing!! This is the Atocha train station, which you may remember is the station that made the news when it was bombed a few of years ago. Apparently, there is quite a moving memorial to the victims of the bombing that we hope to see when we leave for Barcelona on Tuesday.
Our first full day in Madrid
My first impression of Madrid is that it’s a very clean city and very, very walkable. I saw virtually no litter as we walked around and there were a large number of city works going on the streets cleaning and sweeping. The old part of the city certainly has that “old European” feel with beautiful boulevards punctuated by magnificent fountains and amazing amounts of architectural details on the buildings. It seems everywhere you look there is a statue at the top of a building or some other interesting detail that catches your eye.
Our first big stop was the Prado Museum, which I have to confess I knew little about before coming here. Turns out, it’s one of Europe’s most significant museum and ranks right up there with the Louvre in Paris. They were featuring a Renoir exhibit so we knew we would be viewing some amazing works of art. Now, the beauty of visiting Europe in the winter is you miss out on the massive crowds that are typical when you come here in the summer. Consequently, we only stood in line for about 15 minutes to get tickets to the exhibit for later that afternoon. We had tickets for 2:15 this afternoon so we had a couple of hours to kill and decided to visit the permanent collection at the Prado. They had a fantastic collection of Ruben’s paintings a well as a handful of other artists. When it came time to view the Renoir exhibit, we found it just as impressive. You’ll have to trust me on that since we couldn’t take any pictures inside!!
Our visit to the museum took a few hours and when it was over we took our time and casually strolled back to the hotel, taking our time to look into the windows and admire the beauty of this magnificent city. Then it struck us - what would be a better way to top off our first full day in Spain than with a tapas crawl and a flamenco performance??? So we popped into the first of two really great tapas restaurants. Actually, it seems every restaurant has a tapas menu and there are wonderful little restaurants all over the city. We found the tapas menus to be really quite reasonable - we have found you can typically get enough tapas to share between four people and a great bottle of wine for under 30 euros. Not a bad way to work your way through the city!!
The flamenco performance was really enjoyable as well. It took place in an intimate dinner theater space and we sat at a table that was no more than 10 feet from the stage. I would say the whole place only had about 15 tables. The performers consisted of two men singing traditional Spanish songs and three woman and one man dancing flamenco. All I can say is that if you haven’t had a chance to see a good flamenco performance, you HAVE TO GO. There is so much remarkable energy and intensity that comes through in the performance that it just draws you right in.
After the performance we stopped into another intimate restaurant for a late night dinner, which is also normal for the Spanish people. Typically, most folks here don’t even think about going out to dinner until after 10 p.m. and most restaurants stay open well after midnight!
Well, I can see this entry is probably dragging on WAY too long so I’ll wrap it up for now. We decided to take a day trip to Toledo tomorrow so that should be lots of fun…….